EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THE TUDOR FXD GMT
The Tudor FXD range is their most utilitarian offerings with all their watches designed to be used as a pure tool watch. From the design language to the technical aspects of their FXD watches, Tudor ensures that these can truly be worn anywhere and everywhere to the point you would never need to take them off your wrist. If you're interested in buying your own Tudor, go read our other article on how to choose your Tudor.
However, they always had a model missing in their collection. They already had several dive watch models and a chronograph so it was only a matter of time before they could round the collection off nicely with a GMT. And, that's exactly what Tudor have given us, an epic GMT watch designed to be worn in any conditions. That’s why today we’re going over everything you need to know about the FXD Tudor range but focusing on their fantastic new release everyone is talking about, the Tudor GMT FXD.
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The Tudor Pelagos FXD line represents a harmonious blend of Tudor's rich naval heritage and modern watchmaking innovation, essentially finding the middle ground for watch enthusiasts and those who require a tool watch through and through. The Tudor FXD line is known for two things, durability and functionality (and fixed lug bars!) however it’s also so much more than that. Other than Panerai, very few watch brands have had military partnerships or at least ones that have lasted for decades and Tudor’s FXD line represents their military connections and relationships they have had over the years. In particular with military diving units, especially the French Navy's elite combat swimmers, the Marine Nationale. Watch brands undergo many different certifications and tests to prove how reliable and durable their watches are, but if a military unit has chosen to use their watches for their operatives, that says an awful lot about just how durable and capable the watches are.
Tudor's association with military diving began in the mid-1950s when the French Navy's Groupe d'Étude et de Recherches Sous-Marines evaluated Tudor's Oyster Prince Submariner models. The positive feedback led to Tudor becoming an official supplier to the French Navy by 1961 and creating dive watches designed for the Navy’s needs and wants.
Notably, the reference 9401, introduced in the mid-1970s, featured a blue dial and bezel with distinctive "snowflake" hands, designed for enhanced underwater legibility. This model became emblematic of Tudor's design language and they have kept the snowflake hand design across all their watches, but this is the reason behind it - meeting military specifications. Tudor has been creating watches for the military for several decades.
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In 2021, Tudor unveiled the Pelagos FXD, reviving its collaboration with the French Navy, in much the same token they’ve done with all their other watches, reviving older models. The "FXD" denotes the fixed strap bars, a feature machined into the 42mm titanium case for increased robustness—a design choice inspired by military requirements. This essentially means there is no way on earth you can lose the watch no matter what you do, something obviously quite important for military divers !
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Unlike traditional dive watches, the Pelagos FXD features a bidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute countdown timer, catering to the specific needs of combat swimmers during underwater navigation. However, Tudor also created a case made from a black carbon composite to make the watch just a durable jet even lighter. It was mostly designed with competitive sailors in mind as they needed to tell the time yet have something durable and very light on their wrist. It’s impressive that a watchmaker like Tudor develops new materials to meet the needs of their specific customers as not many brands innovate and play around with materials like that.
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The Pelagos FXD's design pays homage to its predecessors while incorporating modern advancements, like COSC certified and now even METAS certification on the new GMT.
The navy blue matte dial, adorned with luminescent "snowflake" hands and hour markers, ensures optimal readability in low-light conditions.
The case back is engraved with the Marine Nationale logo and the year of issue, reinforcing its naval lineage. Powered by the COSC-certified Manufacture Calibre MT5602, the watch offers a 70-hour power reserve and features a silicon balance spring, underscoring Tudor's commitment to precision and reliability.
Building on the success of the initial model, Tudor expanded the Pelagos FXD line. In 2023, the Pelagos FXD Chrono "Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition" was introduced, celebrating Tudor's partnership with the Alinghi Red Bull Racing team.
This model features a chronograph function, catering to the precise timing needs of yacht racing. Additionally, the Pelagos FXD GMT was unveiled, equipped with a dual-time complication ideal for aviators and individuals operating across different time zones.
These additions demonstrate Tudor's dedication to evolving the FXD line to meet diverse professional requirements. However, the Chronograph did not truly fulfil all the needs of someone wanting or even needing a GMT watch, like for navy pilots… That’s where the Tudor GMT FXD comes in to fill the gap in the lineup.
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The Pelagos FXD GMT features a 42mm Grade 2 titanium case, known for its durability and lightweight properties to keep in line with the rest of the FXD watches.
The case has a lug-to-lug measurement of 52mm and a thickness of 12.7mm, offering a substantial yet comfortable wrist presence and being thinner than your average GMT means it can slide under a cuff or jumper sleeve without any problems.
The matte black dial is complemented by beige applied hour markers and Tudor's signature "Snowflake" hands, both filled with Super-LumiNova for enhanced legibility in low-light conditions.
A notable design element of the GMT compared to the other FXD models is the 24-hour bidirectional rotating bezel, allowing the wearer to track a second time zone efficiently.
At the heart of the Pelagos FXD GMT lies the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U, a COSC-certified movement providing a 55-hour power reserve. This movement supports the GMT function, enabling the tracking of multiple time zones—a feature particularly beneficial for travellers and professionals operating across different regions. The watch maintains a water resistance of up to 200 meters, underscoring its robustness and suitability for various environments.
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Compared to the other FXD models, this one is the only one that is METAS certified and that doesn’t have a 70 hour power reserve. In order to accolade the GMT movement inside the relatively small case size some trade-offs were needed to be made. However, compromising on slightly less power reserve for a smaller case and METAS certification certainly seems like an excellent deal!
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Tudor offers the Pelagos FXD GMT with a flight-suit green one-piece fabric strap, secured by a Grade 2 titanium pin buckle to match the metal of the case itself.
An additional removable fabric keeper adorned with the French Naval Aviation roundel is included, emphasizing the watch's military-inspired aesthetics.
The choice of materials and design ensures both comfort and durability, making it suitable for extended wear in or out of water. Now, this strap choice is a great one and it makes it look the part however you don’t really have much choice from Tudor when it comes to the strap.
ZEALANDE have long been a creator of perfectly made rubber straps for Tudor watches as no other brand makes them designed for Tudor. That’s why ZEALANDE developed a single pass rubber strap that works with watches like the Tudor FXD GMT with fixed lug bars.
With the textile design, 316L stainless steel buckle and keepers with a slot in them to keep them in place the ZEALANDE single pass strap in an excellent way to give the FXD GMT the look you want.
There are eight colours to choose from so you can really play around with different looks and styles and three different pin bucks finishes, brushed, polished or PVD black. All of these can complement and match the Tudor FXD GMT which is what makes them such a great adoption, not to mention the rubber itself has been designed and built to last the test of time whilst feeling so comfortable on the wrist !
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The Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT stands as a testament to the brand's ability to blend historical significance, notably military watches with modern watchmaking excellence. Its thoughtful design, reliable movement, and practical features make it a compelling choice for those seeking a versatile and heritage-rich timepiece.
The Tudor FXD GMT is an excellent well rounded watch that has everything you could need in a daily worst watch, 200 meters of water resistance, dual time zones, impeccable luminosity and a date.
There really aren’t many other features that are as useful as those and to all be constructed together in a sleek military looking watch is very impressive. Whilst it may not have a bracelet option, that can actually be a good thing as it helps make the FXD range stand alone from the rest of Tudor’s collection.
Whilst these watches are either offered with a 42 or 43 mm case size, they tend to wear 1mm smaller than the size would suggest thanks to their shorter lug-to-lug measurements and relatively thin cases.
This is only made better since they only come with one strap and straps hug your wrist perfectly so you know you can easily get the perfect fit with the watch and not need to worry about complicated link removal or any tolls needed.
The Tudor FXD collection as a whole has really come a long way from a simple revival of an only design for the military to now offering more complex models which may not sound impressive but to offer them highly durable cases is.
It makes the buying process very simple for someone in the market looking for the ultimate tool watch with any complication as well, you really cannot beat the Tudor FXD line which is not only evidenced by the military usage but also by top professional athletes.
Yes, like Tag Heuer, Omega and Rolex to name but a few others, Tudor sponsors those athletes but have a look at the specifications of its competitors and you’ll notice that they are just as good but they will cost you multiple times more than the Tudor. It really shows they are doing everything they can to give the world incredible timepieces for the best possible price, something all of its customers can feel and love.
The FXD collection really shows Tudors ability to create pure tool watches with all the specifications you could possibly want at a very sensible price point.
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And there you have it, everything you need to know about Tudors FXD line-up and their new big hit, the Tudor FXD GMT. These watches can really go anywhere and do anything. To take that look and feel to the next level, why not use a single pass ZEALANDE strap? ZEALANDE design their straps to reflect the quality of your luxury watches and it also gives you a chance to save your Tudor bracelet from scratches and wear and tear whilst enjoying a whole new look. Because the Tudor FXD GMT only has fixed lug spring bars, you don’t and can’t use a toll to change the strap so switching from one strap to another doesn’t require any tools and it will only take a few seconds! Tudor is a brand ZEALANDE specialise in so you can be sure they will have the perfect strap for you in a colour you’ll love wearing. If you're also a fan of the Tudor company, here's another dedicated article you may like !
