EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT OMEGA SEAMASTER LINE

The Swiss brand OMEGA has established itself in the world of watchmaking as a reference thanks to the different models and the large number of collections it offers for sale. The number of watches produced by OMEGA each year is impressive, the brand has a history of more than 170 years, we can cite a large number of different collections, but especially a number of references almost unlimited in view of the possible customizations on each of the watches

We will focus here on a major collection if not THE most representative collection of the brand. We are obviously talking about the Seamaster range. We will see the origins of this collection, the main models as well as the innovations brought in the development of this range by OMEGA.

Nowadays, the OMEGA Seamaster range includes many models that can be in steel or gold, each with a strong history. We will also see OMEGA's desire to transform this collection into the brand's muse.

Before we jump straight into looking at the new BB68 we need to first go back to the origins of the Black Bay line altogether to understand why tudor has created this new model within the line. Tudor's most well-known dive watch, the Oyster Prince Submariner (reference 7792), was created in 1954 and marked the beginning of their renowned diving watch adventure. It was possible to go on short dives with divers because of its 100m water resistance. It was not until 1958 that they introduced the new submariner (reference 7924), which featured a 200-meter water resistance. This watch model was very similar to a regular vintage submariner in terms of appearance, but it had a different dial and movement. Vintage Tudor submariners with a Rolex-signed crown are still available today.

THE FIRST EDITION OF THE SEAMASTER 300

Originally, the Seamaster name officially appeared in 1948 with the release of the Seamaster Diver CK, but the origin of OMEGA's waterproof watches can be traced back to the Marine, released in 1932. The Navy could go to a depth of 135 m and was used during the Second World War.

The need to produce waterproof watches became a priority for the brand. So in 1948 the brand released the first model of this collection, which today is considered the most popular. This popularity is due to the numerous watches in the collection, but also to the various ambassadors who have promoted the range.

This first model is far from the appearance of the current models of the collection that everyone knows. It had a round case of 34 mm with a pure design, the name Seamaster comes from the increased resistance to water of this model for the time, this waterproofness is allowed thanks to the use of an O-ring. As a reminder, diving was not yet a trendy sport. The rise of diving occurred during the 1950s with the multiplication of references adapted to the practice.

This is why in 1957, the release of the professional watch trilogy appears with the Railmaster CK2914, Speedmaster CK2915 and Seamaster 300 (ref 2913) and we attend the release of the Seamaster 300 (ref CK2913.) each of these 3 watches had its specificity. The Railmaster Professional was intended to resist magnetic fields, the Speedmaster was to measure time intervals in an ultra-precise manner and finally, the Seamaster was to accompany divers on a daily basis.

This is reflected in several major changes from the first Seamaster in 1948 to increase its credibility as a diver's watch. First of all, its case size has been increased from 34 to 39mm, the white dial has become black to improve the contrast of the hands, which have seen their shape revisited, and the hour hand has been given an arrow shape. The last addition that sets the foundation for a major collection is the presence of the seahorse on the back of the watch.

The method used by OMEGA's engineers to make the watch water resistant to 200 meters (maximum resistance, as the measuring equipment did not go deeper) and that of the crown Naiad Rolex having patented the screw-down crown system 4 years earlier for the release of the Submariner.

This system worked thanks to a spring that compressed as the pressure on the glass increased, very effective at depth, but proved less effective at shallow depths. The watch will be equipped with the caliber 501 offering a power reserve of 46 hours.

This caliber is also present in the Constellation series of the time. The 1957 Seamaster 300 represents the essence of a major collection for OMEGA and its evolution is not over.

In 1964, the model evolved into a second generation which saw subtle changes. The case size increased to 42mm, and the design became asymmetrical by integrating the crown guard designed for the Speedmaster Professional. As a reminder, the Speedmaster Professional will become the official watch of NASA and will be nicknamed "the Moonwatch".

Finally, the bezel is enlarged and is equipped with luminous markers. In 1967, OMEGA's Seamaster 300 became the official diving watch of the Royal Navy and was produced until 1969.

In order to continue the quest for the deep, which had begun in 1955, OMEGA announced the release of a model with a very special shape in 1970, the Seamaster Ploprof. The Seamaster Ploprof takes its name from the professional diver for whom the watch is primarily intended. In addition to its original name, the watch also has unique dimensions: a case with a diameter of 54 mm, 15 mm thickness and a weight of 175 g. In addition to its special dimensions, its design with a huge orange hand and massive crown protectors has attracted a wider audience than the divers initially expected.

Where competitors offer models equipped with a helium valve in partnership with Doxa, OMEGA has chosen to design a case that is watertight to the helium molecule, a particle so fine that it could seep into the case and cause serious damage during the diver's decompression. However, this result allows the watch to be exceptionally resistant up to a depth of 600 meters, a record for the time.

Always with the aim of going even deeper, barely two years later, a model was released that was little known to the public, but which nevertheless represented a technological marvel for its time. The Seamaster 1000, nicknamed The Grand, was one of the watches worn by the famous Captain Cousteau, who was known as a great ambassador for OMEGA Seamasters.

If this model is so little known to the general public, it is because it was only produced in a hundred pieces, even though its water resistance reached 1,000 meters. As a reminder, at the time, the resistance of watches was measured by attaching the watch to a submarine, the "BEAVER MARK IV".

THE RACE FOR INNOVATION, THE SEAMASTER DIVER 300M

More than 20 years after its last version, it was in 1993 that the public saw the return of the famous Seamaster Diver 300 M. OMEGA has chosen to equip its model with skeleton hands, a unidirectional rotating bezel and a steel case with domed bars. The date window will be placed at 3 o'clock and the Seamaster Diver 300M will be supplied with a sculpted 5-link steel bracelet.

This monumental Seamaster Diver 300 M will see changes to its components and design on the occasion of the 70th anniversary of the collection.

The case is now 42 mm in diameter and 13.5 mm high, and the ceramic dial is available in blue, black, white and PVD Chrome with SuperLuminova indexes for easy readability. Other modifications include the change of the date window to 6 o'clock for symmetry, the return of the wave pattern on the dial and finally, the hands have also been given a new design for the occasion.

Speaking of new design, it would be impossible not to mention the new ceramic bezel covered with white enamel or Ceragold™ depending on the model. We will have the pleasure of finding the wave pattern present on the dial, the watch will be Master CHONOMETER certified thanks to the 8800 caliber, equipped with OMEGA's famous Co-Axial escapement.

This movement is resistant to magnetic fields exceeding 15,000 gauss, with a balance wheel featuring a silicon balance spring and a 55-hour power reserve. A real technical feat on the part of OMEGA, complemented by a sapphire crystal caseback that allows the mechanism to be admired.

It's impossible to talk about the Diver 300M without mentioning its variations. The Swiss manufacturer OMEGA has chosen to offer the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph. This watch allows to measure time intervals and is the answer to the Daytona of its competitor with the crown. The Diver 300M Chronograph is equipped with the Co-Axial escapement, certified master CHRONOMETER ensuring a perfect precision. Today, the average price of a Diver 300M Chronograph Co-Axial Master CHRONOMETER is around €8,200 for the reference 210.30.44.51.01.001(2022).

We will also have the pleasure of discovering the Seamaster Diver 300 M CHRONOGRAPH CO-AXIAL CHONOMETER GMT 44 MM (reference: 212.30.44.52.03.001) available in steel on steel for a price of around 6 000€(2021). Like the other Diver 300M, the watch is resistant to a pressure of 30 bars, which corresponds to a depth of 300 meters.

Let's go back a bit, in 2002, OMEGA decided to break the codes of the Seamaster and release a model aesthetically very different from its usual line, the Aqua Terra. This model differs from the others in the collection in its design and components. If you want to know more about the origins of the Aqua Terra, we recommend this article.

The Aqua Terra brings a touch of novelty to the range by its originality, it has less the appearance of a diver and adopts a more sportive look. From its release in 2002 to now, the model has benefited from 4 major editions. To learn more about this model, which stands out from the classics of the collection, we invite you to read our complete article on the history of this model. It will benefit from the OMEGA Co-Axial movement certified Master CHONOMETER. The average price of a basic Aqua Terra is around €5,800(2022), the price will vary depending on the reference chosen

THE NEWCOMER IN THE FAMILY, THE PLANET OCEAN 600M CO-AXIAL MASTER CHRONOMETER

In 2005, the large family of Seamaster is enlarged with the appearance of the Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M (2201.50.00 in 42mm and 2200.50.00 in 45,5mm). It will be available in 3 different sizes with a variety off exceptional materials such as stainless steel, gold, titanium, ceramic or platinum.

This watch has been designed to brave the depths and has a resistance of 60 bars, equivalent to a depth of 600 m. OMEGA has also provided this model with a wide choice of compatible straps, steel, Nato or rubber.

Each model is equipped with a unidirectional bezel to track dive time. The price of a Planet Ocean 600 M co-Axial Master CHONOMETER is around 6 800€ (2022,ref: 215.30.44.21.01.002). The price will vary according to the reference chosen.

The race for depths initiated by OMEGA continues in 2016 with this time the release of a 2nd generation Ploprof, the Ploprof 1200. The watch keeps the same look as the previous model, but doubles its water resistance, benefiting from the same uniquely sized case. It will be equipped with a co-axial movement.

This race to the depths will end in 2019 with the release of the professional OMEGA Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep. This particular model is receiving special attention from OMEGA. In order to test the resistance of this model, OMEGA uses the same technique it used in the 1970s, which is to attach the watch to a bathyscaphe called Limiting Factor. Attached to this submarine, it will reach a depth of 10,928 meters in the Mariana Trench.

Achieving the largest dive ever made for a watch. OMEGA has adapted the watch used during the dive to offer for sale a model resistant to 6000M (600 bars), equipped with the best materials, including titanium, the watch is available for a price starting at 12 900 € for an OMEGA Planet Ocean 6000M Co-Axial Master CHONOMETER on a Nato bracelet (ref 215.92.46.21.01.001).

THE SEAMASTER HERITAGE MODELS

Over the course of its existence, the Seamaster range has grown with increasingly precise chronographs, with the Co-Axial Master CHONOMETER escapement becoming the classic movement of the Swiss brand's latest Seamasters. Among the legacy models, we will find watches that have marked the history of the brand, the Bulhead for example, its name coming from the shape of its case. We will also find the brand's limited edition watches such as the Railmaster 1957 edition (ref 220.10.38.20.01.003), the date of release of the first OMEGA Professional.

There will also be watches paying tribute to major dates in OMEGA's history, editions paying tribute to the Olympic Games, as the Swiss brand has been in charge of all sports timepieces during these events since 1932. The brand offers multiple references in limited editions each year, so it would be impossible to list them all.

However, the Heritage collection does not only include limited edition watches, but also vintage-inspired models, quartz watches, or even lesser-known models such as the Ploprof we mentioned earlier.

You will say that we are not talking about the growth of the collection thanks to its mythical ambassador: James Bond.

We could not talk about Seamaster without talking about our agent, indeed, it is from 1995 that the English spy finds himself wearing an OMEGA. James Bond is a fan of luxury watches, we have seen him wearing Submariners, Seiko, and since 1995 a partnership has been established with OMEGA. We saw Bond wearing an OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M, then Daniel Craig allowed OMEGA to promote many references such as the Planet Ocean (unlike the general public model the case will be in titanium), the Aqua Terra, he will successively wear the watches either on a steel bracelet or more casually with a Nato version in Spectre. To learn more about the history of James and his watches go to our Blog here.