EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE

This brand has really become a go-to choice for many when it comes to buying a luxury dive watch and it’s not hard to see why. You get a dive watch with a case shaped like no other watch brand out there and the level of craftsmanship is nothing shy of outstanding. A popular choice from Panerai by many enthusiasts is the famous Panerai Submersible.

Panerai Submersible on a man wrist

When it comes to an aggressive design that shouts “rugged tool watch” that is designed to be worn in any and every situation, the Panerai Submersible is almost unbeatable. Panerai has such a fantastic rich, yet unique history compared to other famous watchmakers, making it a great choice. Today we are going over everything you need to know about the Panerai Submersible so you can fully appreciate just what a fantastic watch it is.

The beginning of the Panerai story

When Giovanni Panerai opened a watchmaking business in Florence, Italy, in 1860, he established Panerai. Originally housing a shop, a one-man band workshop, and the city's first watchmaking school. The story of the conventional watchmaker usually starts in Switzerland, but Panerai faced serious difficulties in Florence because there were no other watchmakers nearby to get advice from or study under. Orologeria Svizzera, Giovanni's company, drew visitors from outside of Florence as well as residents and quickly developed into a centre of horological expertise. Giovanni's work was significant since it was the first of its kind to be attempted in Italy when it came to watchmaking.


A significant turning point in Panerai's history occurred in the early 1900s when Guido Panerai, Giovanni's grandson, began a significant partnership with the Royal Italian Navy in the 1930s. The collaboration aimed to develop precision devices of military calibre, specifically for its top-tier underwater commandos. This explains why Panerai's history with nautical chronometers is so strong, and it also served as inspiration for their creation of dive watches, which are incredibly durable !

Panerai Luminor Marina black dial

Source : Wiseman’s

Panerai Submersible white dial

Source : The Watch Page

 Of course, there's also the fact that Panerai's watchmaking dates coincided with World Wars, whereas Switzerland did not, making financing more challenging for them. This was presumably due to the fact that the military was receiving the majority of the nation's funds, and Panerai knew they would need to work with them if they wanted to have any chance.

Panerai developed the first watch designed for the military and it was the Panerai Radiomir. Panerai still needed to see if there would be a consumer-based demand among the general public before they could truly offer their watches commercially. Producing timepieces under government contract to supply the armed forces is one thing; but, producing and marketing timepieces to the general public is an entirely other. When Panerai began selling timepieces to the general public, it was almost a century after the company's founding. 


However, Panerai realised that selling just one watch would restrict the attractiveness of their products to a very specific group of individuals, so in 1993, they released their first collection of timepieces for the general public, which featured multiple models. These watches were attractive to collectors and watch aficionados due to their historical relevance and distinctive aesthetics, but they also kept the sturdy and practical design aspects that were necessary for military use.

The Panerai Submersible, as we know it today, was officially introduced in 1998, over sixty years after Panerai’s first military diving watches. While Panerai had been producing professional diving watches for decades, the Submersible marked a turning point with its specific focus on modern professional divers designed for both professional and casual wear.


 When Panerai re-entered the civilian market in the 1990s after its acquisition by the Richemont Group (then called Vendôme), it became clear that the brand needed to evolve to compete in the highly competitive luxury sports watch segment. 


Well-established dive watch making brands like Omega, Rolex and Tudor were already the choice for many watch enthusiasts so Panerai had to do something different if they were to stand out. While the Luminor and Radiomir lines continued to evolve with their distinct cushion-shaped cases and bold designs, the Submersible emerged as Panerai’s true professional dive watch.

Panerai Submersible on a man wrist

Source : Time and Tide Watches

Black dial Panerai Submersible

Source : Swisswatches Magazine

The first Submersible, Panerai Luminor Submersible 1000m (Ref. PAM 00087), was released in 1998, and retained the classic cushion-shaped case of the Luminor but introduced several features that catered to modern diving needs. 


One of the most important was the rotating bezel used for tracking elapsed time—a critical function for divers monitoring their oxygen supply underwater. And whilst many people who wear dive watches today may not actually use the rotating bezel to time their dives, it is still a desired feature by many so Panerai decided it was about time they add this feature to their own watches.


 In addition, the Submersible incorporated Panerai’s signature crown-protecting bridge, enhancing its water resistance and giving the watch its distinct silhouette. These elements made the Submersible stand out as a rugged yet refined tool watch that remained true to Panerai’s design DNA.



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The first Panerai Submersible model

The first model in 1998 featured a whopping 44mm case, which back then was considered very large, but it definitely gave the appearance of that rock-solid tool watch. The Panerai Submersible was not made that big for no reason, it had a water resistance of 1000 metres which is way over double that of the Omega Seamaster or Rolex Submariner. The case was a rushed stainless-steel case with the classic Panerai levered crown guard. The sapphire crystal was around 5.1mm thick in order for it to be water resistant to 1000m.


Of course, it had a unidirectional bezel with a 60-minute diving scale which was black filled and engraved with 15 minute zones and raised 5 minute markers to make legibility easier. For a watch to go this deep on divers’ wrists and be practical it needed a helium escape valve which is exactly what Panerai added on the left case side.

Black dial Panerai Luminor Submersible on a wrist

Source : Hodinkee

You had the choice between either a beautiful black dial or a few years in 2002 a deep blue dial. The hands and hour markers on the dial were polished and filled with tritium luminous fill. You had a small seconds sub-dial at 9 o'clock giving the watch a unique look compared to your traditional seconds hand. The Panerai Submersible also featured a date window at 3 o'clock position with magnifying loupe under the crystal.

Panerai Submersible on a woman wirst

 The one thing that made Panerai a little controversial back on the first model was the strap options that were available to you, as it only came on a leather watch strap. There is nothing wrong with a leather strap, and if anything, it made the watch more elegant despite its size, however leather is not exactly known for its water resistance. Despite having a dive watch that was capable of deep dives, the strap would be destroyed so that’s why Panerai offered a rubber strap option a few years later in 2002 when they added the blue dial version to the collection.

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Panerai Submersible on a ZEALANDE watchstrap

Source : ZEALANDE

As Panerai grew in prominence throughout the 2000s, the Submersible underwent numerous innovations, both aesthetically and technologically. The Submersible’s diving capabilities were pushed to new limits, with models offering increased water resistance and technical precision. In its drive for performance, Panerai began experimenting with advanced materials to enhance the durability and wearability of the Submersible. 



For instance, titanium became a favoured material for its combination of strength and lightness, reducing the heft of the otherwise large timepieces on the wrist. The Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Bronzo (Ref. PAM 00382), released in 2011, featured a bold bronze case, sparking a trend for bronze dive watches across the industry. Over time, this material develops a natural patina, giving each piece a unique character.

In more recent years, Panerai introduced Carbotech, a composite carbon material that is lightweight, highly durable, and offers a unique textured appearance. Models like the Submersible Carbotech (PAM 616) demonstrated Panerai’s commitment to cutting-edge innovation while maintaining the watch’s robustness. The great thing with Panerai’s ability to use new material was that it kept what would otherwise be a lump of heavy steel, a relatively light and sleek watch despite its 44mm case size.



 One of the hallmark features of the Submersible is its exceptional water resistance. Panerai offers models with ratings as high as 1000 meters (3280 feet), far exceeding the depth requirements for recreational divers. The Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Ceramica (PAM 508) and Submersible 1000m (PAM 87) are perfect examples of this extreme water resistance, making them highly respected among professional divers and adventurers alike.

Panerai Luminor Submersible

Source : Vintage Watch Specialist

By the 2010s, Panerai began equipping many of its Submersible models with in-house movements. Previously, Panerai had relied on high-grade movements from companies like ETA, but the shift to in-house calibres signalled the brand’s desire to be seen not only as a design icon but also as a true manufacture of watch movements. These movements offered greater power reserves and improved performance, enhancing the Submersible’s functionality for professional divers.

Panerai Luminor Submersible

Source : WatchesbySJX

In recent years, Panerai has positioned the Submersible as a separate, stand-alone collection within the brand, distinct from the Luminor and Radiomir lines. This move reflects Panerai’s commitment to modernising the Submersible while preserving its maritime roots. The brand has continued to push boundaries by incorporating eco-friendly practices in some of its models, such as the Submersible eLAB-ID made of 98.6% recycled materials. This aligns with a growing trend of sustainability in luxury watchmaking, furthering the Submersible’s appeal to eco-conscious consumers. Collaborations with explorers and adventurers like Mike Horn, a renowned environmentalist and global explorer, have also helped shape the Submersible’s adventurous image. Limited-edition models such as the Submersible Mike Horn Edition (PAM 984) symbolise Panerai’s connection to oceanic exploration and environmental conservation. This just goes to show how Panerai is a brand that can evolve and move with the times in order to supply watches that its current audience desire yet still maintain its original roots and designs to preserve its classic models.

Two Panerai Luminor and Luminor Marina

Source : Wiseman's

In 2024, you can now buy a Panerai Submersible with a gorgeous deep navy sunburst blue dial, a clean matt artic white dial, a rich chocolate brown dial, black carbon, grey sunburst, silver sunburst, green or even a skeleton dial. With a GMT model available as well, this is a line from Panerai you can have a lot of choice which allows you to get the perfect model that conforms to your personal tastes. With steel, gold, bronze and carbon cases offered, each Panerai Submersible really has its own distinct look. 


The case size does still remain large but certain models come in at a case size of 42 mm whilst the bigger models have a case size of 47 mm! With over 37 models to choose from in the Panerai Submersible range, you can be sure to not only find the design that pleases you most but they all have kept their strong watch specifications that they were first born with and now feature their own in-house movements.

Panerai creates all of their Submersible watches with a matching leather, rubber or metal strap, which really helps make their dial colours pop. However, for those looking to wear their Panerai Submersible whilst doing sports or even using it for the tool watch it is, diving or swimming, you will have some issues with the leather strap option. That’s why ZEALANDE created the perfect high-quality rubber strap to match the quality of your Submersible and allow you to wear it whilst doing sports like swimming. 


The ZEALANDE strap comes in 5 key colours allowing you to match it to your dial just like the OEM leather strap and if that wasn’t enough, you can also use the OEM buckle strap with your ZEALANDE strap! This really helps to give your Panerai an OEM look yet offer more durability compared to leather as this material doesn’t fare very well against water.

Black dial Panerai Luminor Submersible

Source : Hodinkee

And there you have it, everything you need to know about the Panerai Submersible. It’s the watch that really shows the performance of Panerai and is a popular choice for many. With so many different colour variations and sizes available it makes it a watch you can really find your own personal style in. With the Submersible coming on several different strap options, it makes for an excellent dress watch too that can cope with everything a soldier needs to go through so it can truly do it all.