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EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT BREITLING CHRONOMAT
Originally designed in the 1980s as a pilot's chronograph, the Breitling Chronomat has evolved into a versatile sports watch that appeals to a broad range of enthusiasts. The Chronomat, another cornerstone of Breitling's collection, has shown impressive value retention in the modern market. To this day, the first Chronomat still remains one of Breitling's most famous watches and one of its consistent best sellers. Let's view how this famous chronograph is the symbol of watchmaking innovation and its evolution through the years.
Source : Zeitauktion
A watch born for performance
In the early 1980s, Breitling learned that the Italian Frecce Tricolori aerobatic mens team was looking for a special mechanical chronograph for its pilots. The ideal watch for the team had to be robust enough for the cockpit, but elegant enough to be worn outside flight hours. One of the main risks faced by fighter men pilots is damage to the watch glass when opening or closing the canopy.
Breitling came up with a clever solution: press the glass into the bezel and protect it by add four raised “riders” made in stainless steel at the 15-minute markers. Impressed at the view of the design, the Frecce Tricolori ordered the watches, which won over not only the team but also collectors.
In 1984, the Chronomat was entirely reimagined and relaunched as the model we know today. This new version was designed to appeal to both jet pilots and sports enthusiasts, and it quickly became one of Breitling’s most popular watches.
Source : Breitling
Source : Breitling
The name “Chronomat” was intended at first to be an abbreviation of the word chronograph for mathematicians, implying a scientific purpose. But when the collection was relaunched in 1984 as a multi-purpose sports watch, it became a combination of the words chronograph add to automatic, meaning self-winding capabilities and wide range of versatile applications.
First intended for a scientific community (engineers and mathematicians), this watch was precisely made to further distinguish this model from all the other pilot’s men watches of the time.
Chronomat through the decades: the evolution of its design and features
The first model ever designed of the Chronomat was launched in 1940 as a predecessor to the brand’s Navitimer watch, a tool for scientists. The very first Breitling Chronomat from the 1940s featured two gold and black sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock.
The bezel of the 1980s Chronomat was particularly noteworthy, featuring an unidirectional rotating bezel with 60-minute markings, and stainless steel rider tabs at the 15, 30, and 45-minute marks. The rider tabs were designed to facilitate the grip and turn the bezel more easily, even while wearing gloves.
The bezel also had a unique look, with raised, angled numerals that were easy to read no matter the jet speed and how the pilot rose in the air. This version of the bezel box remained for the next four decades.
Source : La Confrérie du Temps
Source : Daniel Gerard
The dial of previous generation Breitling Chronomat watches was designed for easy legibility in a variety of lighting conditions, which was essential for pilots. The dial often had a black background with contrasting white markings, including large indices for the hours and smaller markings for the minutes.
Like we briefly evoked in the previous part, in 1984, Breitling re-launched the model under the name Chronomat as a modern chronograph watch with a bold design and improved functionality.
Its riders, the easy-grip “onion” crown and the durable grey metal “Rouleaux” strap still remain emblematic elements of the Chronomat to this day.
In 2004, thirty years after the launch of the first official item of the collection, Breitling introduced us to the Chronomat Evolution, a re-edition enhanced of the classic Chronomat.
Five years later, in 2009 the brand announced the creation of the Caliber B01, Breitling’s first entirely in-house movement. The Caliber 01 has a 28,800 BPH frequency and a power reserve of about 70 hours. The movement is equipped with a column wheel chronograph function, which allows smoother operation and greater precision.
In 2016, a totally different innovation showed out : the Exospace B55 gmt, a yachting version of the Chronomat and the first connected chronograph by Breitling.
Source : Edouard Genton
Finally, in 2020, a major update came out : we were awarded the release of an all-new generation of the fan favorites. While the current generation still harbors that steel Rouleaux design with the rounded links, a few models of the new generation sport a leather strap giving a nod to the Chronomats that were released before 1970.
Source : Zegg-Cerla
The latest release of the collection (in limited stock) is an edition of the GMT, the automatic Chronograph GMT Six nations Scotland. Mostly for men and featuring a blue dial and a silver case, this GMT limited edition is a must have in your collection with its not-so-high price.
The collection now includes both a chronograph and a time-and-date model. With all this evolution and new models, you can easily find the watch you’re looking for, so don't hesitate to add it to your cart !
Source : Watches of Switzerland
The Breitling Chronomat is arguably one of the Swiss brand’s most iconic designs so it is no surprise that Hollywood actor Tom Cruise is known to have one in his personal collection. With a bold red GMT hand, smooth black dial, unidirectional rotating bezel and resistant stainless steel case, we’re not sure there’s a better fitting Breitling watch edition for the action-movie actor.
Thanks to their expertise in the aviation field, the British Royal Air Force trusted Breitling watches and had bombers and fighter jets equipped with Breitling dashboard clocks for years.
Moreover, Breitling gave out a limited edition in collaboration with the NFL, featuring 16 models in the colours of 16 teams of American football all across the USA. Men were so high about these watches that the NFL collection was extended and no longer is limited in America. It can still be found in sale (if you're a NFL fan looking for one to add to your cart !).
Actually, even some players of the chosen NFL teams decided to add these automatic GMT blacksteel box watches to their cart.
Finally, a special limited edition was created for the Renault F1 Team with a 39mm dial. With the colors of the team, all in gold and blue, the model was launched in the 90s, golden age of the French racing team and had known great success. This blacksteel edition ran out of stock since its release but you can still find it on sale at a lower price.
Source : Menmagazine
Breitling Chronomat technical details: performance and precision
The Chronomat was the first model of the brand to feature slide rule bezels. It has since rose to become the signature design element of the Navitimer collection, little sister of the Chronomat one. The Chronomat retains the design elements that pilots had loved in the first edition like the distinctive riders, sleek, streamlined case and iconic “Rouleaux” strap.
Interchangeable 15- and 45-second jumpers were originally conceived for aerial missions and regattas, and the internal tachometer provides the finishing touch to make the Chronomat the ideal all-round chronograph. Moreover, its limited weakness to water dial and stainless steel case box add super power to this already high watch.
Source : Zeitauktion
Last but not least, Breitling Chronomat is equipped with the Super-LumiNova technology material, just like another famous Breitling : the Endurance Pro. It allows pilots to read the clock any time, even during night without lights in their jet. No matter the edition you may choose to stock in your cart, each Chronomat has its own specificities and combines high resistance material with limited weaknesses.
Source : Maier
The Chronomat case sizes vary between 32 and 44mm (44 being the Super Chronomat). They happen to be in various material : stainless steel, blacksteel, classic steel, silver, platinum, titanium, gold rose, pearl or diamond components or even 18k red gold.
We can also mention the beautiful “Ice” Chronomat GMT. This GMT features a super stunning light blue dial and for the release, Breitling chose January in the calendar to complete the winter vibe.
If you’re picky men, Breitling stays original : the Chronomat can be found in no less than 13 colors of dial : rose gold, classic rose, black, ice blue, grey, "mother of pearl", silver and many add others.
While most of the watches are view to be for men, a few outstanding item are exclusively designed for women. For example, the classy and elegant Chronomat automatic 36 has a case literally covered in silver diamonds, or the “Lady quartz” appears all rose. Be careful, don't confuse it with the "Super quartz" movement powered by Breitling, not present in this watch.
The famous “mother of pearl” dial is present in both models, combining a mix of rose, white, blue or gold tones - colours that are 100% natural. The unique iridescence and natural patterns of the shell of a pearl ensure that two dials won’t ever be the same. With a collection of rose gold watches and mother of pearl dial, these editions will be view as diamond by women.
Source : Catawiki
Source : Lepag
In an iconic timepiece like this one, the details make all the difference. For example, blacksteel push buttons on the case of the Chronomat are made of stainless steel that ensures durability and longevity.
The Breitling Chronomat also features a grey rotating elapsed time bezel with "rider tabs" for improved grip and durability. Men often choose to pair it with a different strap than the original, allowing them to add a limited style to their watch (like rubber strap on the NFL edition).
With a really wide retail price range, going from $3900 to $59000 USD, you will certainly find an edition that please both you and your wallet and be able to add it to your stock cart (if the item is in stock of course) and once ordered, you won't be able to wait to have it out of the box !
The Breitling Chronomat is an iconic GMT watch that has been a favorite of watch enthusiasts for decades, thanks to its precision engineering, sleek design, and impressive durability. With its rich history, exceptional craftsmanship, and timeless design, the Chronomat is a true investment piece that will stand the test of time. Don't hesitate to add it to your cart if your favorite edition is in stock and not limited ! And go check our rubberstraps for Breitling to match it ! Whether you go for a vintage or contemporary edition, like the NFL gmt, the Breitling Chronomat is a true symbol of luxury and sophistication that will be treasured for years to come.
