EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THE GMT MASTER II

A watch made famous through the commercialisation of air travel, Rolex created the perfect watch designed to be worn by both pilots and travellers with the function of being able to track multiple time zones. The GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) specifically in reference to the Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II watches, involves its unique functionality designed for tracking multiple time zones simultaneously through an added hour hand and bi-directional rotating bezel. Introduced primarily for pilots and international travellers, this watch has become a symbol of luxury and precision in timekeeping. In this article we shall go over and cover everything there is to know about this amazing timepeace, the Rolex GMT.

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This unique timepiece features the traditional hour, minute, and seconds hands that you would expect on any high-quality watch. However, what sets this watch apart is the addition of a distinctive 24-hour hand, easily identifiable by its triangle tip. This specialised hand completes a full rotation around the watch's face once every 24 hours, unlike the regular hour hand which completes two rotations in the same period. This design choice is not just aesthetically pleasing but highly functional, allowing the wearer to effortlessly track a second time zone. 

The original GMT Master 2

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The original GMT-Master, which made its debut in 1955, was developed at the request of Pan American Airways, one of the most prominent international airlines of the time. The airline sought a reliable timekeeping instrument that could assist pilots and flight crews in managing the complexities of navigating through multiple time zones, an essential requirement for ensuring accuracy and efficiency in international air travel. 


This request underscored the necessity for a watch that was not only precise and reliable but also easy to read and adjust across different time zones. Rolex therefore took the initiative to make a watch possible for this, making a watch that would be useful for many and craft it in a way that would become a desired timepeace in any watch collection. In 2007, Rolex introduced ceramic bezel inserts to the GMT-Master II range, replacing the aluminium inserts used since 1959. The ceramic is much more scratch-resistant than aluminium, adding to the watch's durability and appeal. 

This is where it all started, the first Rolex GMT-Master, reference number 6542, ever created and sold. More than 60 years later, its design is strikingly similar to that of the modern Pepsi-bezel GMT-Master II. As with so much that Rolex has done, one can see how the GMT-Master's design, with its clever bisection of the day into daytime and nighttime and its 24-hour hand, has influenced watchmakers through the years and helped to create a category unto itself. Many will recall that this watch was famously worn by Honor Blackman when she portrayed Pussy Galore in the James Bond film Goldfinger. 

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Just like the 6542, there was an all-gold version of the 1675. And while early steel 1675s had crown guards, their gold counterparts did not, at least not at first. Both the above 1675 and the later gold 1675 below don't have the Mercedes hand that we've seen up until this point in the 1675. These gold 1675s are often referred to as Concorde models, inspired by the supersonic plane. The hands are very similar to those that you would see on a Datejust or a Daytona, which is a bit strange to see on a GMT-Master. Rolex needed to produce an all gold version of the watch to add to the premium notion of their brand that we all know of. 

Rolex introduced the GMT-Master ref.16750 in 1980, a model with a new movement and also featuring glossy dials. Rolex started using the calibre 3075 movement, which featured a quick-set date. The movement also had an increasing ticking number of 28,800vph. 


However, this model was in production till 198, just a short period in time, which makes it a sought-after model of the GMT-Master series. On the other hand, it probably isn't as sought after as the Rolex GMT-Master II 16760 aka ‘The Fat Lady’ (or ‘Sophia Loren’). This was the first GMT-Master II and it had an advancement over the regular GMT-Master, which is the functionality to read time of three different time zones. 


Besides that, the ‘Fat Lady’ had a thicker case, thicker crown guards, sapphire crystal and only available in the “pepsi” configuration, which is a red/black bezel. This model of the Rolex GMT-Master used calibre 3085. 


Further enhancing its utility for global adventurers and professionals alike is the watch's bidirectional rotatable bezel, equipped with a 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert. Cerachrom, known for its durability and resistance to scratching and fading, is an ideal material for a watch that's built to traverse the globe. 


The bezel's ability to rotate in both directions allows the wearer to quickly and easily set the second time zone without affecting the watch's timekeeping functions. By aligning the bezel with the 24-hour hand, the wearer can instantly reference another time zone at a glance, a feature that is particularly useful in today's interconnected world where keeping track of multiple time zones can be essential.

Source : A Collected Man

Source : Time and Tide 

The most recent iterations of the GMT-Master II timepieces are equipped with the advanced calibre 3285 movement, marking a significant milestone in the realm of horological engineering. The addition of this movement in the watch shows us the brand's commitment to innovate in watchmaking technology. The calibre 3285 is not just a mechanism for keeping time, it is a very complex designed piece of work that ensures the watch operates with exceptional accuracy and longevity. Only the Rolex GMT Master II uses this calibre, which is completely in house produced. 

A high-precision calibre for the GMT Master 2

Beyond its fundamental functions of displaying hours, minutes, seconds, and the date, the calibre 3285 movement facilitates an additional, highly wanted feature for global travellers and professionals who operate across time zones: the ability to track a second time zone in a 24-hour format. This feature is indispensable and necessary for those who need to quickly and easily find out the time in another part of the world, whether for coordinating with international colleagues, keeping in touch with family while abroad, or ensuring timely connections during travel. 


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Its clean dial design facilitated effortless readability, which was very important for those working in a high-pressure environment of aviation where every second counts. The watch was distinguished by its signature red and blue bezel, a feature that was both visually striking and functionally innovative. This two-tone bezel, later affectionately known as the "Pepsi" bezel due to its resemblance to the brand's iconic logo, was more than just an aesthetic choice. It served as a critical function by allowing wearers to differentiate between daytime and night-time hours at a glance, enhancing the watch's utility for tracking multiple time zones and making it easier to read.  

Rubber strap ZEALANDE for Yatch Master

It's been 65 years since Rolex launched the first GMT-Master, and in that time, there have been a great many variations if you take into account all of the examples and different strap / bracelet configurations. The Rolex GMT-Master series has an array of colours and styles, catering to a wide spectrum of tastes and preferences, further making its status as a versatile and iconic timepiece. The most famous among these is perhaps the "Pepsi" bezel, with its distinctive red and blue colouring, evoking the spirit of aviation's golden age and offering a stark, yet elegant contrast against the watch's dial. For those seeking a more subdued aesthetic, the "Batman" version presents a sleek option with its blue and black bezel, symbolising the watch's precision and sophistication. 

A huge range of colours for the GMT Master 2

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The "Root Beer" design, with its brown and gold or brown and black bezel, offers a vintage look and style, reminiscent of the original luxury of air travel. Moreover, the all-black bezel versions provide a classic, understated look that maintains the GMT-Master’s signature functionality while appealing to traditionalists. Beyond bezel colour variations, Rolex also offers these watches in different materials, including Oystersteel, yellow gold, and the brand's exclusive Rolesor, a combination of gold and steel, allowing for personal expression through both colour and texture. This diversity in design ensures that there is a GMT-Master to suit every wrist, and a need in a watch collection. With all the different variations in style, metal, colour this watch can be suited to any individual in the market for a new watch, with both its elegance and utility.


The GMT-Master II elevates the utility of two time zone tracking by introducing the capability to read three separate time zones. This advancement is achieved through an innovative design that includes an adjustable 24-hour hand and a rotatable 24-hour graduated bezel. By manipulating these components in conjunction with the conventional 12-hour hand. Wearers can easily track an additional time zone, making the GMT-Master II an even more versatile tool for global communication and travel. This feature is particularly beneficial for individuals who frequently navigate between multiple time zones, offering a level of convenience and efficiency unmatched by other timepieces.

The GMT-Master II elevates the utility of two time zone tracking by introducing the capability to read three separate time zones. This advancement is achieved through an innovative design that includes an adjustable 24-hour hand and a rotatable 24-hour graduated bezel. By manipulating these components in conjunction with the conventional 12-hour hand. Wearers can easily track an additional time zone, making the GMT-Master II an even more versatile tool for global communication and travel. This feature is particularly beneficial for individuals who frequently navigate between multiple time zones, offering a level of convenience and efficiency unmatched by other timepieces.

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