everything you need to know about seiko prospex

Thanks to the calibre 8L35 (we’ll get into more details about it later), the Prospex collection has an infallible precision in the hot and cold. The balance and spiral are critical components that ensure a smooth beat. Because the balance is made of a sensitive metal, the slightest change in temperature can cause it to expand or contract, which can lead to shape distortions. The 8L35 mechanical movement minimizes the effects of temperature on the balance and preserves overall accuracy by using four arms instead of the usual two or three. To stabilize rotation, the balance is checked in 0.000001g increments and then checked and adjusted by craftsmen as part of a comprehensive quality control process.

Then, each piece is extremely enduring. Energy must flow efficiently between gears with minimal loss of energy for the watch to function perfectly over time. To ensure efficient energy transfer, the gears are meticulously finished using traditional and reliable processing techniques, and are then carefully polished one by one to minimize friction.The exhaust wheel and pallet fork are created using MEMS (Micro Electro Mechanical Systems), a method for manufacturing high-precision components based on semiconductor technology. Seiko manufactures the gears using these two techniques to minimize friction and extend the life of each component.

Two types of movement exist at Seiko and were made exclusively for and by the brand : the mechanical calibre 8L35 and the mechanical chronograph calibre 8R. They both are so specific and so amazing in terms of innovation, it definitely deserves a closer view. We’ll give you a list of their main advantages.

First of all, the calibre 8L35 hides its share of surprises and innovations. Developed specifically for diving watches, the Calibre 8L35 is Seiko’s cutting-edge mechanical movement with manual winding, designed to the highest standards of performance and functional beauty. It provides a power reserve of about 50 hours, a precision of +15 to -10sec everyday and features 26 rubies. Every detail of its construction can be traced back to Seiko’s proven expertise in creating cutting-edge mechanical movements from the ground up. Here are some of the special features that distinguish this high-quality Seiko watch movement.

To conclude this piece of art, the looks : the attention to detail can be seen in the beauty of the movement, even if it is usually hidden behind the case back. The rear plate, deck and rotor are rhodium plated, which stands out for its noble and luxurious appearance. The rotor and bridge are meticulously finished with a soft wave pattern. Our craftsmen ensure that performance and beauty combine in Seiko’s cutting-edge mechanical movement.

Unlike other brands, three characteristic processes were developed by Seiko to complement this calibre 8L35. The SPRON is an original alloy from Seiko. Used for the main spring and spiral spring, it has been developed to be resistant to tear, corrosion and wear. The use of this special alloy in the 8L35 gives the calibre a long service life and stable accuracy. The Diashock is a structure developed to improve the resistance of movement to shocks. It is used as a bearing, for example for the pivot of the balance wheel, a section of the movement particularly sensitive to shocks and jolts. With Diashock, the structure retains high stability even when subjected to sudden shocks.

The Magic Lever® plays an important role in the efficient winding of the motor spring of an automatic movement. It has two spring-loaded pulleys of different shapes that are always in contact with the drive wheel used to rotate the barrel. When the swinging mass moves in one direction or the other, the two pulleys on the Magic Lever® always generate a unidirectional movement of the drive wheel. One pulls the drive wheel and returns to its position, and the other pushes the same wheel on the opposite side and returns to its position, allowing for efficient spring reassembly.

Now let’s talk about the mechanical chronograph 8L, which is not left out compared to the 8L35.

Heir of a legendary chronograph, born for precision, this calibre represents the uncompromising craftsmanship of one of the world’s first automatic chronographs. It provides a power reserve of 45 hours, a precision of +25 to -15sec everyday and features 34 rubies.

Here’s three characteristics of this special calibre movement :

First, a vertical clutch eliminates shaking or jumping of the hands when the on/off button is pressed, improving chronograph accuracy and durability. By piling components on top of each other, the vertical clutch limits the wear of the gears seen in horizontal clutch mechanisms.

Then the column wheel, which looks like the top of a castle turret, ensures precise control of the operation of the chronograph. The use of a column wheel provides a better tactile sensation when starting, stopping and resetting the chronograph than cam and lever constructions.

To conclude, Seiko’s unique three-point hammer ensures that when the reset button is pressed, all the needles will return to zero instantly and in perfect synchronization. This ensures a high level of durability and greater user satisfaction.

These detailed mechanisms explain the price of the watch, which in sale can be add to cart effortlessly by the way.

Mechanical chronographs are known to require a high level of technical expertise due to their complexity. Perpetuating their heritage as pioneers in automatic chronographs, the 8R series of Seiko chronograph movements use a wide range of technologies that have been created and perfected by Seiko for many years.

A specific example of their adaptation to the sports and adventure world is the rotating bezel set up on every Prospex watch. It’s a more than necessary feature for divers, here’s why : as the evaluation of the remaining air in your cylinder is based on the information of the elapsed time of the dive, the rotating bezel for a diver's watch is designed to rotate only counterclockwise, so that the watch is prevented from displaying the elapsed time shorter than it actually is.

As another key feature, many Seiko Prospex are designed with a sapphire crystal dial or case. For example, when adding the "King" to the Samurai nickname, Seiko means that it receives the same upgrades over the base model as a King Turtle (reference SRPE 05K1) does compared to a standard Turtle. This means that it has a sapphire crystal and a ceramic bezel insert, as well as an upgraded dial.

Instead of official names, famous Seiko models are given nicknames by fans which quickly become the accepted name for the model. One of the most iconic examples of this is the Turtle diving watch, which earned its name thanks to the oval shape of the case, its large surfaces and of course, its green color. This model exists in different versions, like the King Turtle, which is practically identical to the regular Turtle but has an upgraded ceramic insert bezel and green sapphire glass. There’s also the Tortoise variant which is an adventure watch for use on land that uses a similar case shape.

You can also find the ‘Night Vision’ Turtle in dark green, which is part of the Black Series, a sub-collection of stealthy black watches with prominent lume found across the Prospex range. With a characteristically large 45mm stainless steel case, it houses the 4R36 automatic movement, which like many Seiko movements can also be supported with manual winding.

As one of the biggest Japanese watch brands in the world, it’s only right that at least one watch makes reference to the country’s cultural history. The Samurai (ref srpe) has sharp angles and a faceted case that evokes images of the armour worn by traditional Japanese warriors, an impression heightened by the patterned dials. A significant advantage of this watch is its low price compared to the other models of the line, which make it easier to shop (especially if you manage to avoid shipping fees).

Similar to the King Turtle, there’s also a higher spec King Samurai version and a dive watch edition called the Shogun because of its bolder aesthetic. The latest addition to the Samurai collection is the PADI ‘Great Blue’ edition from 2023, with a dial texture reminiscent of light seen from below the waves. Powered by the 4R35 automatic movement, this watch was rapidly sold out after its release. But if you really want one on your wrist, you can sometimes find second-hands on sale.

Big and round, those are the two adjectives that best describe the sumo design, which until recently was one of the least populous of the Prospex models. It has a broad 45mm diameter and a case featuring wide curves. However, the display is one of the most skin diver-esque, with oversize circle hour markers and a thick bezel with a dive timer.

The Alpinist (ref spb 197J1) is a watch that has shaped the lineage of the Prospex range ever since it was first introduced in 1959. In many regards, it’s the original Seiko sports watch, designed to be easy to read and withstand the rigours of athletic activity. Some of the innovations introduced on the original 1959 version – which was re-created as a new timepiece in 2021 – are now common across all kinds of watches, such as screw casebacks to protect the movement from sand and grit.

Modern Alpinists are versatile in design : some key references are the highly accurate 2023 re-creation and the GMT model (ref spb). Pictured here though is the 1959 re-interpretation spb 243J1, which is the most typical expression of the design with a 38mm steel case and the 6R35 automatic calibre.

Prospex Landmaster ref sla 071J1, commemorating the 30th anniversary in a limited, numbered edition, features a magnificent blue dial that evokes the view of a deep sky contemplated by alpinists on their ascent to the highest peaks. This high-end watch offers exceptional reliability and versatility to satisfy the adventurous spirit, while offering superior comfort thanks to its titanium case, which is 30% lighter than steel, even stainless one. 

Moreover, the “hard coating” effectively protects against surface scratches. This model also features a bidirectional titanium bezel with cardinal points and a “Super Clear” sapphire crystal for optimum legibility. Because of all these high-quality raw materials, the Landmaster comes with a higher price and is a little bit more difficult to shop (it was sold out faster).

In the Aviation sub-collection, we’ll only talk about the most famous one due to a lack of time, the Speedtimer solar chronograph (ref ssc). This pilot's watch is a combination of pilot's watch and racing watch. In 1969, Seiko introduced the very first Seiko Speedtimer ssc with the innovative caliber 6139. It was the world's first automatic chronograph with a column wheel and vertical clutch, two devices that brought real improvements to the measurement of elapsed time by a wristwatch.

The white chronograph has a rugged look with three navy blue subdials on a white dial background. This provides clear legibility for reading the time. The chronograph displays 24-hour time, running seconds and two functions (a 60-minute elapsed time counter and a power reserve). The main engine that keeps the watch running reliably is the Calibre V192 solar-powered quartz chronograph movement. It has a power reserve of up to 6 months on a full charge. As for precision, you can always count on the quartz with a value of around ±15 seconds per month.

Numerous reissues of the watches we have presented have already taken place, particularly for the anniversaries of each original watch. For these occasions, the watches come with the original strap and a rubber one matching the color, if you decide to switch styles.

Among these novelties, the most known we’ll mention are : the Alpinist European Limited Edition “Rock Face” (ref spb 355J1), the Black Series Limited Edition, the 1965 Diver’s Re-creation Limited Edition ref spb 147J1 as well as the 1965 Diver’s GMT Modern Re-interpretation “Save the Ocean” Limited Edition ref sla 065J1.

Although the nostalgic aspect of these re-editions was at first understood and welcomed with open arms by fans of the brand, the craze waned with each new release. This is understandable, as the models can seem repetitive and the launch occasions no longer as exceptional as they were.

Since the first Seiko diving watch was released in 1965, the manufacture has created a multitude of watches that have won the favor of athletes and divers. Seiko Prospex watches have cemented their reputation as the ultimate companion for adventurers, divers, and watch enthusiasts alike. With their blend of durability, precision, and timeless design, these timepieces continue to push the boundaries of watchmaking excellence. Whether you are looking for a robust diving watch like the Turtle, a sleek aviation model like the Speedtimer ssc, or a versatile Alpinist for land explorations, the Prospex collection offers something for every point of view.

If you're considering adding a Seiko Prospex to your cart, now is the perfect time to explore the available models, especially if you want to shop shipping free. With a wide range of options at different price points, you can easily find the watch often for sale on retailers' sites and a strap that fits both your style and budget. We hope you find the perfect match when looking for a sale and when it’s done, simply click "add to cart" to secure your own piece. Don’t wait—shop now and embark on your next journey with a Prospex on your wrist !