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EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THE ROLEX GMT
Rolex is an iconic brand that needs no introduction today, thanks to the reputation it has earned in the watchmaking world since it was founded in 1905 as Wilsdorf & Davis. From the outset, Rolex has been a leader in its field, setting industry standards through groundbreaking innovation, unrivalled precision and the use of premium materials. Each Rolex watch blends tradition and modernity to deliver quality timepieces. This relentless pursuit of perfection has kept Rolex at the top and made it a symbol of elegance and performance in the world of luxury watches. An icon of luxury and functionality, how has Rolex revolutionized the world of aviation and chronometry?
One of the brand's must-have watches is, of course, the Rolex GMT, which single-handedly combines luxury, precision and practicality. Not only did the GMT redefine expectations of a travel watch, it also marked a turning point in the world of aviation and timekeeping. In this article, we'll explore the history of the Rolex GMT, highlighting its beginnings, its evolution over the years and the various versions and improvements that have shaped its design and functionality, not to mention the impact it has had in the history of aviation and watchmaking.
The origins of the Rolex GMT
It all began in the early 1950s, a period marked by a major revolution in the world of aviation. The era saw rapid growth and an increase in long-haul flights that transformed global transport. Long-haul aircraft made international travel possible in a single day, forcing pilots to juggle multiple time zones. Among the key players in this transformation, Pan American World Airways played a central role in the expansion of intercontinental travel. Pilots, now faced with the complexities of managing time differences between different time zones, have seen their daily lives profoundly altered by this new reality of air travel.
This created a demand for pilots who encountered complications in keeping track of local time and the time of the reference time zone. They needed a watch that could tell them the time in two time zones simultaneously. It was against this backdrop that Rolex was asked to develop a watch to meet these new needs.
In 1954, in collaboration with Pan Am, Rolex launched production of the GMT-Master, a revolutionary watch for pilots. Its key features were precisely tailored to the demands of aviation and the needs of international travelers.Rolex's first GMT watch, reference 6542, was introduced to display two time zones simultaneously, a major innovation at the time.
This first prototype of the GMT-Master was equipped with a two-tone rotating bezel on a black dial, the rotating bezel featuring a 24-hour scale, allowing not only to read the time at destination, but also to monitor a second time zone. A feature that enabled users to easily read two time zones simultaneously, facilitating the management of complex schedules, while appealing to customers through its design and colors.
The bezel was divided into two distinct colors, usually red and blue, hence the name “Pepsi” that users gave it over time. This feature was essential for pilots and international travelers who had to keep track of several schedules at the same time.
With all the success Rolex has enjoyed with the GMT Master, it can be said that it has contributed to Rolex's international reputation in the field of professional watchmaking. Indeed, they didn't just create a watch, they solved a problem.
The evolution of the Rolex GMT over time
In 1983, after all this time, Rolex decided to bring a new era to its GMT collection. An improved version of the 1954 with the launch of the GMT-Master II edition. This model introduces significant advances and affirms Rolex's position in evolution, listening to its customers to bring them the best in terms of design, colors and mechanism. So what improvements have been made over the first version?
The GMT-Master II benefits from several improvements over the previous version.Firstly, the introduction of an improved two-tone bezel, which continues to facilitate the simultaneous reading of two time zones, but with colors that are now brighter and more resistant to wear and tear.
Aesthetic and functional improvements have been made, for an even better design and a more resistant watch. In addition, the case has been slightly enlarged to offer better visibility, and high-quality materials have been used to improve overall durability.
Indeed, the original model had a bakelite bezel, considered an innovation at the time, but this was fragile and was replaced by a metal bezel. One of the most important innovations of the GMT-Master II was the introduction of a mechanism for independently adjusting the hour hand. The user can adjust the hour hand without touching the minute or seconds hands.
In short, the GMT-Master II marked a major advance in the design and functionality of travel watches, further consolidating Rolex's reputation for horological innovation and precision.
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The various important variants in the series
The GMT Master reference 1675 (introduced in 1959): This version was designed to meet the growing needs of travel professionals and pilots for functionality and durability. One of the most notable improvements to the Rolex GMT Master Référence 1675 was the addition of crown guards, a feature that enhanced the watch's resistance to water and dust.
This feature offers additional protection against shocks and impacts. It has also introduced larger hands, an ergonomic improvement that makes it easier to read the time, not forgetting that this edition has remained faithful to the blue and red color scheme of the first prototype.
In the late 1980s, Rolex introduced reference 16710, a landmark update to the GMT-Master series. This model symbolises a new era for the collection, incorporating modern materials that improve both the durability and aesthetics of the watch.
Unlike previous versions, whose aluminium bezel was more susceptible to scratches, the 16710 is distinguished by the addition of a ceramic bezel, offering increased resistance. The case has also been slightly refined for a more elegant design. On the mechanical side, this version benefits from calibre 3185, a significant evolution compared to the movements of the previous models: calibre 1030 for reference 6542, which was the first automatic movement, and calibre 1570 for reference 1675. These improvements enhance the watch's performance and reliability.
GMT Master straps
Rolex distinguishes two main steel bracelets found in the GMT Master II range: the Oyster and the Jubilee. The Oyster bracelet is the most common on Rolex watches, thanks to its more sporty, everyday look. In contrast, the Jubilee bracelet has a more sophisticated look.
Although not directly associated with the Rolex GMT-Master in its early versions, the Jubilee steel bracelet is an important part of Rolex's history, quickly becoming a symbol of comfort and luxury. Composed of “R”-shaped intermediate links, it offers a distinctive look that has marked the evolution of Rolex bracelet design.this bracelet is available for many of the brand's watches, including of course the GMT, although it was associated with the Rolex Datejust version.
Its comfort made it a popular choice for many Rolex watch enthusiasts, and it remains a popular choice today among collectors and hobbyists. And even if this bracelet is not the basis of the watch, it should not be forgotten that it has also contributed to reinforcing its iconic status in the watchmaking world.
Rolex GMT-Master special editions and collaborations
Among the special editions in the GMT-Master II collection is the “Batman”. Launched in 2013 on an oyster bracelet, the GMT-Master II “Batman” is distinguished by its black and blue cerachrom bezel (high-tech ceramic, which confers both scratch resistance and great durability) on a black dial and white hour markers, which met with great success as it marks a new chapter for the GMT with modern colors and mechanical enhancements, A second version released in 2019 under the name “Batgirl” offers the same case except for an improved caliber and power reserve, but this time on a jubilee bracelet.so very interesting for watch enthusiasts.
Source : JACQUOT
Next, we can add to this series of special editions the Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” (Reference 126710BLRO). Launched in 2018, this version is recognizable by its cerachrom bezel in blue and red colors, hence the name “Pepsi”, and is very popular with collectors as it recalls the colors of the first iconic version.
As for the Rolex GMT-Master “Root Beer” (Reference 16753), which came out in the 1970s, Rolex launched the “Root Beer” model, a GMT-Master with a gold and stainless steel bezel, evoking the hues of a beer, hence its name. The first gold model released by the brand was in 1945. The “Root Beer” was produced in limited quantities and quickly became highly sought-after by collectors for its vintage feel.
The latest is the GMT Master II Bruce Wayne (reference 126710GRNR). Released in 2024, this model is distinguished by its unique gray and black Cerachrom bezel, offering a modern, aesthetic touch accentuated by the black dial. It features a 40mm Oystersteel case, known for its durability and resistance to corrosion.
The black dial is complemented by a green GMT hand and the inscription “GMT-Master II”, adding a touch of color to the monochrome design. The indexes and hands are white and filled with Chromalight, offering exceptional legibility in low-light conditions thanks to long-lasting blue luminescence. The model is available with both Oyster and Jubilee bracelets, offering styling versatility.
Rolex's historic collaborations
Rolex and Pan American World Airways (Pan Am): The GMT-Master was developed in collaboration with Pan Am to meet the specific needs of the airline's pilots. This collaboration gave birth to the first GMT-Master in 1954. Pilots also played an important role in the creation of this watch, to ensure that it best met their needs.
Rolex and NASA: Rolex already had a reputation for making durable, sturdy watches, which attracted the attention of NASA employees who also needed such reliability in their watches. Thus began their collaboration. With each successive edition and collaboration, it's clear that the GMT has become a must-have accessory that evolves with the times, meeting the needs of its customers in terms of design, color, technical aspects and practicality, and attracting collectors and watch enthusiasts alike.
The cultural impact and status of the Rolex GMT-Master: More than a watch, accessory or travel timepiece, the GMT has had an impact beyond the world of watchmaking, carving out a place for itself in fashion, cinema and the professional world.
Since its creation, the Rolex GMT-Master has been associated with the world of aviation, since it was initially designed for pilots in collaboration with an airline. The Rolex GMT-Master has also become a symbol of success in the professional world. Indeed, wearing a GMT today is synonymous with professional success.
A GMT-Master is not only a functional tool, but also a collector's item. With all its editions and collaborations, there are models that are highly sought-after by collectors, especially the vintage models. What's more, the purchase of such a watch has become an investment. Given the success of the Rolex watch, it's not surprising that it inspires and influences other watches. Its two-tone bezel and specific features have served as a benchmark for many manufacturers wishing to offer similar functionalities.
The Rolex GMT-Master embodies much more than a watch, it has become a symbol of luxury, precision and innovation in the world of aviation and watchmaking. Since its debut in 1954, the GMT-Master has continually evolved to meet the needs of pilots, travelers and collectors, while retaining its iconic aesthetic. Its cultural impact and its presence in fashion, cinema and the professional world have made it a true object of prestige. The Rolex GMT-Master remains a benchmark of horological excellence, symbolizing elegance, functionality and success.