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THE ART OF BEZEL MAKING - FROM GMT TO YACHT-MASTER

A watch bezel is more than a ring of metal around a dial, it’s a fusion of form and function, an interface between watchmaker and wearer, and often the most distinctive visual signature of a timepiece. From the utilitarian precision of the GMT-Master to the luxurious shimmer of the Yacht-Master, the bezel really changes up the look and appearance of a watch. However, rarely is it the topic of conversation when it really deserves to be. The level of complexity and difficulty that goes into making a bezel is very high, to the point where Rolex have had many production difficulties as a result of them. This is why we thought it would be very interesting to take a look at the different bezels we can have from Rolex.

First, we need to understand what a bezel is and what it is useful for. In watchmaking, the bezel serves two main functions, protection and utility. The bezel serves as protection by securing the crystal and shielding the dial which is incredibly important as without it you would risk losing the crystal and breaking the dial. As far as utility goes, the bezel will typically enable timing, speed measurement, or being able to display another time zone. Unlike purely decorative elements, bezels must survive decades of wear, exposure, and, in sports models, the occasional knock against a boat rail or airplane cockpit panel. They demand engineering precision in their rotation mechanism, tactile feedback, and resistance to fading.

The importance of the bezel on gmt models

Rolex submariner Green Bezel on oyster strap

When Rolex introduced the GMT-Master in 1954 for Pan Am pilots, the bezel became a critical navigation tool. The bidirectional 24-hour bezel allowed wearers to track a second time zone in conjunction with the GMT hand. Early versions used anodized aluminium inserts, with distinct red and blue, which where the nickname “Pepsi” comes from, chosen for day and night legibility. The bezel here was a practical compass in colour form, lightweight, easily replaceable, and with a click system simple enough for mid-flight adjustments. Modern GMT-Masters now use Cerachrom ceramic inserts, which bring scratch resistance and colourfast pigments that will not fade with UV exposure. But just because they look great and Rolex does know how to make great colour schemes doesn't mean they aren’t without problems. They can crack into pieces and for years Rolex technicians had great difficulty when removing a ceramic GMT bezel as they often resulted in the bezel cracking.

While the GMT’s bezel measures hours, the Submariner and Yacht-Master bezels measure minutes, a vital difference. On a dive watch like the Submariner, the ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel ensures safety as if accidentally moved, it can only shorten dive time and never extend it. The Yacht-Master, introduced in 1992, adapted this concept for the luxury nautical lifestyle. Its bidirectional 60-minute bezel, cast in precious metals like gold or platinum, was less about decompression stops and more about timing yacht race start sequences or a quick harbour manoeuvre. The tactile “click” of a Yacht-Master bezel was a subtle engineering challenge, it must be smooth enough for gloved hands but crisp enough to inspire confidence.

the evolution of bezel in rolex models

The bezel on the Rolex Daytona is a prominent ring encircling the watch’s dial, designed specifically for measuring average speeds using its engraved tachymetric scale. Earlier models often had stainless steel bezels with engraved or printed markings however new models in precious metal also have their bezels made from precious metal too. This allows wearers, especially motorsport enthusiasts, to calculate speeds over a known distance, making it both a practical timing tool and a distinctive aesthetic element of the watch.

As far as materials Rolex uses to make all of their bezels they historically used aluminium inserts which were lightweight, inexpensive, and easily colorized, but prone to fading and scratching. From 2000 onwards, Rolex has typically used ceramic (cerachrom) a highly durable material that is virtually scratchproof, resistant to fading from UV exposure, and able to withstand harsh conditions. For the more expensive and luxurious models from Rolex you could have a gold or platinum bezel. Like the Yacht-Master, the bezel numbers are often sandblasted and polished in relief, creating a play of light that speaks as much to jewellery artistry as to nautical sport.

PRODUCTS FEATURED IN THE ARTICLE

Rubber Strap for ROLEX® Daytona 116500 & 116520

Rubber Strap for ROLEX® GMT 126710BLRO "Pepsi" (6 Digits)

Rubber Strap for ROLEX® Submariner 114060 (6 Digits until August 2020)

Rubber Strap for ROLEX® GMT 116710BLNR "Batman" (6 digits)

For those wondering how the bezel actually works in terms of rotating, the mechanism inside the bezel assembly lies the click spring. This tiny component controls the tactile feel, ensuring consistent resistance and precise alignment with the dial markers. For divers and pilots, even a 1degree misalignment could mean misreading a critical time interval which is why Rolex have spent years ensuring their bezels use nothing but the very best materials both inside and out.

And there you have it, bezel making is where metallurgy meets micro-engineering, and where a watch’s most tactile interaction happens. Whether it’s the rugged dual-time tracking of a GMT-Master or the luxurious nautical timing of a Yacht-Master, the bezel is both a critical function and a luxury addition to the watch. It is the part of a watch that can help us easily identify a specific model and it gives a watch its distinctive look. If you are looking to give your watch a distinctive look then make sure you have a look at ZEALANDE’s rubber straps designed to integrate with your Rolex perfectly. With so many different stray styles and colours you can be sure you will find a look that both suits you and makes it very distinctive.

James Talbot